BASQUE COUNTRY

ON HENDAYE BEACH

HRP AND GR10 BOTH START FROM SAME PLACE

CHRIS FINDS THE GR10 ROUTE MARKERS

SAN SEBASTIAN AYUNTAMIENTO (DISTRICT COUNCIL) BUILDING

SAN SEBASTIAN WITH SANTA CLARA ISLAND & CASTILLO KALEA BEHIND

Saturday morning we took the train from Irun to Hendaye, which is on the other side of the River Bidasoa. The rail journey took us about 2 minutes. We were now on French soil, and we trod a little more of it as we walked down to Hendaye Plage (beach) where the HRP starts.

The beach was uncannily similar to that at Littlehampton where I grew up. For the first few miles the HRP follows the route of the GR10, the start of which is indicated by a sign across the road from the Residence Croisiere, an unmistakable large grey building that backs directly onto the beach.

After a brief exploration of Hendaye town we came across a decent looking restaurant which looked worthy of us investing our funds in their lunchtime 'Menu du jour'. This time we were not dissapointed by the fayre and ate all we were given with gusto (that word always makes me think that 'wind' is somehow  involved).

Perhaps it was the wine, but I managed to persuade Chris to accompany me on the initial part of the HRP route. Starting from the Residence Croisiere, we headed for the hills, initially guided by the red and white stripes that mark the route of the GR10. The surroundings became more rural as we left the town, and looking back we could see how high we had climbed.

We passed through a tunnel under the A63 (A stands for Autoroute in France - the equivalent of our motorway). Immediately following this I teased Chris by completely ignoring the red and white stripes and instead deviated left up a steep, poorly defined track. This was more representative of the HRP route I would be following, with no convenient signs to guide me.

We turned back to Irun shortly after passing the village of Biriatou, returning to the hostel at around 8.00pm. Chris was surprised that we had walked almost 13 miles that day.

Sunday's expedition was a train journey to Donostia/San Sebastian which is about 15 miles to the west of Irun. Just to clarify, Donostia is the Basque name for San Sebastian. After our 22 minute journey we stepped out of the station almost straight onto the banks of the River Urumea, and were immediately delighted by sight of the beautiful bridges, a fountain, churches and intricately-carved sandstone buildings. A walk along the river bank towards the sea took us to the old town and the magnificent sandy beaches filled with olive-skinned sunbathers.

To the east of the river the beach is in the direct line of fire of Atlantic waves, hence its popularity with surfers. The western beaches form a crescent to the south of the natural harbour of La Concha Bay, which is protected by Monte Igueldo, Monte Urgull and Isla Santa Clara. All of these natural features appear to be represented in the prominently displayed logo celebrating San Sebastian's selection as European Capital of Culture 2016.

The weather was scorching again; perfect for a swim in La Concha Bay.

At the top of the 123 metre high summit of Monte Urgull is a castle, and sitting atop that is a 12 metre statue of Jesus Christ overlooking the bay. We naturally felt obliged to make the climb and were rewarded by impressive views over the city. There was also an informative museum within the castle walls that explained much about the city's history.

For Monday, making good use of my final full day based in Irun, we took the bus to the charming Spanish town of Hondarribia just a few miles to the north. The town lies on the Spanish side of the River Bidasoa facing Hendaye opposite, but is a little smarter and more picturesque than the latter. We walked to the Cabo Higuer lighthouse, took a quick glimpse at the old fortified city built during the Rennaisance period, then settled down for lunch in the modern town centre.

A short ferry trip across the river took us to Hendaye from where we caught the bus back to Irun. All this swiching between Spain and France and back again has got us in a real muddle with our buenos dias's and our bonjour's and our por favor's and our s'il vous plait's.

The late afternoon involved shopping for food to take with me when I start walking the HRP in earnest tomorrow. Back at the hostel I carefully loaded up my rucksack taking care not to forget anything. Finally, I gave Chris all the instructions and tickets she needed to get home.

Chris keeps asking if I feel nervous about tomorrow's departure but, having done all the preparation, I'm just itching to get going now.