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| P'TIT DEJ-HOTEL FOIX |
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| SELF-EXPLANATORY |
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| THE CHATEAU |
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| LOCAL TRAIL |
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| LA PLAGE |
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| AUBERGE LE LEO DE FOIX |
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| LA CROIX DE ST SAUVEUR |
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| VIEW FROM THE CROIX |
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| GREAT VIEW FROM CHATEAU ROUND TOWER |
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| BACKGROUND READING |
As I was waiting for the train, wondering why there was no departures information on the platform display, an SNCF bus turned up. Confusing perhaps, but apparently not uncommon.
My seat was next to Vincent, who had spent Saturday walking near l'Hospitalet, but lived in Foix. He was able to give me useful information about what to see in his home town, particularly the imposing Chateau des Comtes de Foix that overlooks it.
Being a Sunday, the Tourist Information Office in Foix was closed, as was the Auberge Le Leo de Foix, the town centre hostel where I had hoped to stay (apparently it is only open on weekdays). There were plenty of quite expensive hotels in the centre, but with Google's help, I managed to find the rather more reasonably priced P'tit Dej-Hotel Foix, roughly a 50 minute walk away. It was pleasantly located north of the town close to the Ariège river and they gave me a room with a garden view.
After settling in, I went out for a walk! You'd think I'd had enough if that by now, but wandering around without the large rucksack weighing me down is a different experience. It was sunny and I managed to find a nice little circular walk through some woods, and then strolled along the 'plage' by the river, watching folk paddling hired kayaks.
On Monday I got up late. Not deliberately, since I had got used to gauging when it is time to rise by the amount of daylight in the room. I opened my eyes several times in the morning to find the room still pitch black, so closed them again. However, I hadn't appreciated just how effective the blinds were at shutting out all the light from the outside, and it was past 10.00am before I finally realised that. By then it was too late for the breakfast I had ordered.
The day's plan was to walk back to the town centre and book two nights at Le Leo, which was where I wanted to stay in the first place, so I settled my bill (they deducted the charge for breakfast) and decamped.
It was cold, wet, foggy and generally dreary - indeed the worst weather I had experienced since my arrival in Toulouse. I had clearly been extremely lucky during my walk in the mountains. I dropped my rucksack off at Le Leo, bought something for brunch from the local supermarket, then started to explore the town, starting with the, apparently, brand new Tourist Information Office. They had two excellent documentaries playing in a continuous loop, one that highlighted the attractions in and around Foix, and another which presented the whole Occitanie region (formerly the Languedoc Roussillon and Midi-Pyrénées regions).
Better weather was forecast for Tuesday, so I decided to leave my visit to the Chateau for the following day. Instead I warmed myself up by climbing the hill that overlooks the town to reach La Croix du Saint Sauveur, a large cross which is easily visible from ground level. Getting there involved a steep climb of about 300m, but it enabled me to see the Chateau and the surrounding area from above. I also visited the Abbatiale Saint-Volusien, built around 860, and once a privileged place for political and religious life in Foix.
I had paid demi-pension for Monday night at Le Leo, but the evening meal was pretty unexciting, as was breakfast the following morning. I decided to make my own eating arrangements for my second night's stay.
Tuesday morning fulfilled its promise of being sunny and warm. By 11.00am I was inside the Chateau walls. There was plenty to see and learn about its history, and the top of the round tower with its amazing views of the surroundings was a perfect place to enjoy a picnic lunch.
Unusually for me, I bought a book on the way out called 'Cathar Country', which explained much about the Medieval history of the area, and particularly how the Cathar religion became established and was eventually vanquished. Much of the remaining day was spent reading it whilst relaxing on the comfy futon in Le Leo's courtyard, with the sound of traditional accordion music emanating from a nearby window. All very French.
By the time I had read all 127 pages it was time for bed. Off to Toulouse tomorrow.