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| PATH PR HU-136 |
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| BY IBON DEL CAU |
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| SOMEWHERE UP THERE |
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SCREE SLOPE BELOW THE BRECHE
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After my usual early breakfast, I packed my rucksack, said goodbye to my hosts at the Hostal Panart and headed back into the hills. The path I would initially follow is the PR HU-136, which would take me to Ibon del Cau. The 1,300m of climbing was tough, especially since there were several stream crossings and it became quite steep in the latter stages, so hands were required as well as feet. I arrived at the Ibon del Cau at 4.00pm, took a late lunch and contemplated my next move.
I wanted to link up with the GR11 track, but this was the other side of the steep ridge overlooking the Ibon de Cau. Crossing the the ridge involved climbing up to the Breche de Punta Fuesa, otherwise known as the Breche de Cau, directly north of where I was sitting and 300m above me. I couldn't get much information about the route or its difficulties in advance, but it was clearly shown on my map and I did see a fingerpost directing me to it, albeit with not much evidence of a path.
I just headed in the general direction of the sign and followed any clues I saw, like flattened grass or displaced rocks, hoping that the route would become clearer as I proceeded. Things quickly became steep, but my ascent was helped by placing my feet in footsteps which I guessed had been made by previous visitors to the area. Upon reaching a plateau I could see the Breche itself, with a scarily steep scree slope in front of it. However, when I got closer, I could see a vague path in the scree, and as I got even closer I could even see green and white way-markers. Thankfully, this was all going to be a lot easier and safer the Breche de Tuquerouye.
I reach the top of the Breche at 6.00pm exactly, and I could see the Ibon de Urdiceto with its dam, its associated minor lakes and the Refugio de Urdiceto laid out before me. There was scree on the exit side of the Breche, but the slope was moderate and the path was clear to see. Not so clear after the scree, though, but I could see small cairns which I aimed for. While walking, I observed that the valley beyond the French/Spanish frontier ridge was filled with fog, and that fog was now spilling over the ridge towards the Refuge. I crossed the dam and, happily, got there before the fog enveloped it.
The unmanned refuge, unusually, had an upper floor with lots of large mattresses. Two young ladies, who I later learned were Tanja and Claudia from Germany, were already there. We chatted for a while, but it was getting late, and cold, so we were soon in our sleeping bags.
It rained overnight, but just a thick fog remained in the morning. Since we had all got up together, the three of us continued our walk along the GR11 as a group. I was nice not to be alone for a change. The fog gradually cleared as we walked and we reached the Refugio de Biados by early afternoon, and ate what we had in our rucksacks for lunch, accompanied by hot chocolate purchased from the refuge.
With the help of the Refugio de Biados staff, Tanja and Claudia were able to book accommodation at the Refugio de Estos, further along on the GR11. My schedule was less pressing and I would be heading for the Refuge de la Soula in France, but didn't expect to reach it until the following day. We wished each other well as we parted and my two companions hurried on their way. I, on the other hand, ordered another hot chocolate before leaving half an hour later.
My initial route along the Val d’Anes Cruzes-136was the same, but I was able to walk at a slower pace as I had decided to stay at the Cabana d'Anes Cruzes for the night, and cross into France in the morning. The cabana was very basic, but I was pleased to see a bedframe and a mattress. It was cold again, so it wasn't long before I was in my sleeping bag.
As morning came, it was still cold at the 2,150m altitude of the Cabana and it was a shame that didn't have a metal cooking pot as someone had left a gas hob, with gas, in the Cabana. I could have used the muesli and tea sachets I had on me, but instead had to settle for peanut butter on rather dry bread and the remaining half of a Snickers bar that Claudia had given me.
Leaving at about 9.30am, I was faced with another relentless climb, the time to the Puerto de Aigues Tortes at 2,683m. The weather was clear, and the terrain not too difficult, but ascending felt like very hard work so I was relieved when I reached the top at around midday. I met just one other person on the way, a Frenchman who was walking in the opposite direction.
I crossed back into France at the Puerto, and continued my trek along the Vallon d’Aigues Tortes to the Refuge de la Soula as I was almost out of food. It was downhill all the way, although particular care was needed for the initial descent as it was on very mobile scree. I reached Soula at around 5.00pm and was welcomed by Dédé, the Guardian of the refuge. It was almost empty to I think he was pleased that I wanted to stay. The one other resident I spoke to was Jasper, who came from the Netherlands. Shortly after my arrival it started to rain, and Jasper had to run to retrieve the washing he had hung out.
After a couple of cups of tea and a shower, I felt restored. Later, Dédé served a substantial dinner, which I enjoyed with wine, although when I went to bed I felt that perhaps I had overeaten. Not surprisingly, I ordered a much more modest breakfast in the morning.
I had considered walking to the Refuge du Portillon, which would have involved ascending to nearly 3,000m, but the weather was expected to deteriorate with thunderstorms predicted. It would not be a good to be caught in a thunderstorm at these altitudes. This has happened to me before and I would not wish to repeat the experience.
Since I was not under any time pressure, I decided to make my way to Loudenvielle instead.